Some Hvar residents still work in marble quarries. (Several guides informed us that the US White House was made from stone from Hvar but when the New York Times published that factoid on the front page of its travel section a few years ago, historians corrected the paper of record. But guides here are not about to abandon the story. Weapons of mass destruction, anyone?) At the north end of the island is Grabak Cave, a major Neolithic archeological site which once held many pottery fragments, knives, copper tools, and human and animal bones -- most of which are now a ferry ride away in a museum in the mainland city of Split. Descendants of this cave continued to be the majority of the inhabitants of Hvar island long after the Greeks arrived. Most archeological sites in Hvar are in caves -- not that all of the Neolithic tribes lived there. It's just that those on the plains most likely had their remnants wiped by the elements (remember those winds?)

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