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the following slide show to give the Alhambra and
Generalife, Granada the viewing it deserves by clicking here.
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A 20th century rehab
The path leads east to the extensive gardens known as the
Generalife. Once there were many gardens on the hill
rising above Alhambra (called the Hill of the Sun.)
The lower gardens were originally the palace orchards.
This whole hill was crop-bearing in times of the
Sultans.
These orchards originally stretched to the top of the
hill. The present implementation started in 1931 and
finished in 1951 and probably has little to do with the
medieval gardens except for the presence of water, a
Moorish trademark. Squirting fountains such as these were
unknown as the water pressure from hill top cisterns
would be insufficient. Modern "restorers" must feel the
need to be evocative rather than duplicative of the
Moorish original.
In the distance rise the moody Sierra Nevadas, Europe's
2nd highest mountains (after the Alps). Most of the year
they are snow covered, hence their name.
Cypress trees (usually associated with cemeteries since
their roots are gentle with the tombs below) line the
path and form a number of interior alcoves here. Muslim
landscapers preferred Cypress as it forms dense evergreen
screens. Myrtles and box also are used in hedges...
...and over 160 different species of plants provide color
throughout much of the year such as these cockscombs.
Another watery courtyard
The gardens rise to this long water courtyard.
The north pavilion had the second story added by the
Christians while the rest of the garden is much earlier.
Take a look at the starkness of the upper story versus
the lavish ornamentation below. Your subdivision would
probably not allow such an "enhancement."
At the north end, this elaborate portico leads to a
Mirador.
The view looking south from the north pavilion.
Christians also made the west (right) side a gallery so
they could see the Alhambra palace and the Sierra Nevadas
beyond. Muslim gardens are typically enclosed and private
with exterior views only available by entering one of the
buildings which served as a mirador.
Another view from the mirador.
East of the long water courtyard, the north pavilion
extends to a double galleried lookout with its own garden
to the south. This "Cypress Courtyard" has a U-shaped
pond added since the Moors departed. It is also known as
the "Courtyard of the Sultana" since one of the queens
arranged trysts with a nobleman. Supposedly when the
sultan discovered the affair, he had all of the men of
the tribe killed.
The water stairway
To approach the upper terrace of gardens, one takes the
"water stairway." This is a beautiful set of steps
embellished by black and white stones (found in different
rivers that form Granada's base). Water flows down where
the banisters would be. We found this area very slippery
in the on-again, off-again rain that plagued our day.
Above is s a closeup of the water-banister. The Moors
succeeded the Romans in mastering public plumbing. In
this case, the founder of Alhambra built a waterway from
the Darro river 3.5 miles upstream. Starting high up on
the hill, it provided water which flowed through these
gardens and into the fortress and palace below.
Next we visit the Renaissance Palace of Charles V (who
never lived there). Join us
by clicking here.
